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wine of the week

The color says nothing about the quality of the wine nor its alcohol level. There is a distinct difference between a light wine and a watery wine that lacks substance. Here are three low-alcohol wines that nonetheless show consistency, substance, and a certain depth. More than anything, they are harmonious wines, which make you want a second glass. Which are perfect to accompany fish!

Affordable: minerals and salinity

The excellent Recaredo house, in Penedès in Catalonia, produces only sparkling wines, among the best in Spain. Celler Credo is the family-created label for white wines, made with the same commitment to producing terroir wines: local grape varieties, organic and biodynamic viticulture, very natural wines. Miranius is made 100% from Xarel-lo, a grape that gives wine with a hint of fruit and which here lends itself to mineral and salty expression. The nose is discreet, with some citrus and pear notes, but above all seashells and sea spray, with that metallic impression. Dry, fresh and very light, yet has presence and chewiness in the mouth. The final touch unfolds on citrus and salty notes. Perfect for a seafood casserole, grilled fish, or candied arctic char!

Celler Credo Miranius Penedès 2021, $19.95 (12866557), 11% off, organic

Aging: 3 or 4 years

Classic: good terroir, good wine

Image from SAQ website

Domaine Billard, father and son, Bourgogne Aligotti, 2021

The Aligoté grape variety is widely cultivated in Eastern Europe (Ukraine, Moldova and Romania above all), but is immediately associated with its origin, Burgundy. It has always been criticized for being of poor quality, but as is often the case, because it was not grown on the best terrain, which we preferred to save for the more profitable chardonnay and pinot noir. A grape with pungent acidity, that really requires careful viticulture, and the right terrain, to produce great wines, like this one, that represent excellent value for money for Burgundy. Very well, it opens with a discreet nose, yet very pretty, with hints of pear, peach, and cream, with a botanical touch adding interest. On the mouth a certain fatness appears, with a delicate creamy texture. Light, tangy and tangy, with a hint of saltiness at the end, perfect to accompany this week’s confit char recipe.

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Domaine Billard Père et Fils Bourgogne Aligoté 2021, $21.90 (13946727), 12.3% off

Aging: 3 or 4 years

Treat: red for fish

Image from SAQ website

2021 Chateau Cambon Brouille, $33.50

Whoever says fish doesn’t necessarily say white wine! In fact, it is the tannins in red wine that swear by fish and seafood, and therefore those who do not have a little can accompany them very well. Such is the case with the delicious Brouilly, made with 100% Gamay like all Beaujolais reds. With a very pale colour, it offers a surprisingly discreet nose. The seductive aromas of Jamai are revealed on the palate, which shows a very beautiful fruity brilliance with notes of cherry and field strawberry. It is very light and subtle, but nonetheless shows resistance, with graininess and depth. Full of energy, with very light tannins at the end where metallic notes emerge. The Sabayon that accompanies our recipe for elderberry may risk diluting the wine. Serve instead with grilled arctic char or tomato.

2021 Chateau Cambon Brouilly, $33.50 (13385931), 12% off

Aging: 3 or 4 years