It is not a tsunami, a water shock wave caused by seismic activity. Nor is it one of the “classic” giant waves that surfers love to cheat on when they die. In Nazareth in Portugal, for example.
This phenomenon has been observedUclueliteNear Vancouver on the west coast of Canada, was what sailors feared most since the Navy’s existence: a sinister wave, enormous, relentless, unpredictable, as if coming from nowhere.
To science, rogue waves are those more than twice as high as those observed around them, and are caused by a rare and perfect coupling of currents, winds, and waves, usually in severe weather.
Those of Ucluelet, observed in 2020 and devoted to scientists A study recently published in Scientific ReportsIt was a water bottle from Homer. According to the notes, Thus, it reached a height of 17.6 metersthe equivalent of a four-story building, while the cavities around it measure only six metres.
If an earlier “evil wave” called the “Draubner wave” was measured 25.6 meters off Norway in 1995, it is this difference between the wave size measured at Ucluelet and its immediate environment that makes it a record. Absolute, at least because the thing is observed and measured by science.
“Relatively speaking, the Ucluelet wave is the most extreme of all.”Explains one of the study’s authors, Johannes Gemrich of the University of Victoria, which was taken up by New Atlas. “Only a few rogue waves have been directly observed at sea, and nothing like that. The probability of such an event is one in 1,300 years.
The Ucluelet wave was detected by MarineLabs’ CoastAware system, a network of buoys and floating sensors that, with the help of specific algorithms, seeks to improve marine forecasts in the Pacific Ocean.
“The unexpected nature of rogue waves and the sheer force of these water walls could make them extremely dangerous to marine activities and the general public.”explains in his press release the president of MarineLabs.
“Measuring the Millennium Wave next to us is an exciting indicator of the power of coastal intelligence to change maritime security.”He adds not without interest in the subject.
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